Final farewells: The Hives, Vampire Weekend, Haim

The Hives at Red Marquee | Ruriko Inagaki

Howlin’ Pelle Almqvist, lead singer and chief comedian of Swedish garage rockers The Hives, told the capacity audience at the Red Marquee that this was the group’s first appearance at Fuji in 19 years, which thus qualifies The Hives as this year’s closest thing to a legacy act, at least among the lineup’s rock contingent.

The group wasted no time in getting the crowd pumped and screaming. They seemed to know all the songs, so Almqvist didn’t even have to prompt them. Pitchman that he is, Howlin’ Pelle kept plugging the band’s upcoming new album, which no one really cared about because it’s all the same crunchy riffs and huge guitar gestures with Almqvist high-kicking to the beat. Not bad for a band that recently celebrated its 30th birthday. 

Vampire Weekend at Green Stage | Taio Kishida

The Green Stage headliner on the last day was Vampire Weekend, who have come a long way since their scrappy indie days. They had grand pianos and extra musicians. They even had a dancer. Ezra Koenig was an affable host, introducing the songs by name and designating which of their five albums they were from. Though it was tasteful to a fault, a lot of people found reasons to dance and a few even sang along to “Oxford Comma,” which by now qualifies as a golden oldie. 

Haim at White Stage | Masanori Naruse

The Haim sisters, who headlined the White Stage, may have been the most unabashedly excited act of the weekend. Despite projections on the back screen of variations on the title of their latest album, “I Quit” (“I quit all relationships”), they just wouldn’t. The group’s sunny California sound somehow worked well with the whole anger thing, but in any case they were so riled up that the audience couldn’t quite keep up with them as they switched instruments continuously through the set.

Given that they’re sisters and all sport long brown hair, it was probably difficult to tell who was who from the back, which is where we were standing, but they created such a united roar of rock that it didn’t make any difference. They also wouldn’t stop enthusing about being at Fuji Rock, which seemed to be a dream come true. “You’re awesome,” one of them kept saying, over and over — or maybe it was all three of them.

Haim at White Stage | Masanori Naruse

Festival of love: Mei Simones, English Teacher, Little Simz

The sun was back Sunday morning and while clouds were always moving in, rain didn’t materialize. We checked out Mei Semones at the Red Marquee just after noon. Given the hangover state of many of the Fuji diehards, Semones’ jazzy indie pop, with heavy doses of bossa nova, was particularly soothing, though it was her command of Japanese — her impressionistic lyrics are in both English and Japanese, often in the same line — that made the deepest impression on the capacity crowd. Semones’ music is lulling and often soporific, but if all you had to go by was the reaction of the crowd, you’d think she was a rock god.

Later that afternoon on the same stage the Mercury-winning Brit band English Teacher really did try to summon the spirits of rock with a capital R, though being a decidedly album-oriented band they mixed the excitement of postpunk with often contemplative slower songs. It’s hard to say how much the crowd got, but they definitely reacted electrically to their more rocking material.

Another Mercury winner, Little Simz, soon materialized on the Green Stage just as the sun was going down. A resolutely emotional rapper, Simz betrayed more self-consciousness than you average MC, though she kept throwing down challenges that the huge Green Stage crowd rose to with bracing brio. Consequently, she grew more confident with each song and eventually let down her guard, beaming a full-bore smile to an enthusiastic audience she probably didn’t expect. It made an impression that maybe even she didn’t understand: The audience loved her candor and her capability to expose herself for the sake of love. And the audience genuinely loved her.

Who will stop the rain?

The avant-punk band YHWH Nailgun (pronounced Yahweh Nailgun), played at the Red Marquee at 2:00 pm when it was still hot outside. By the time they finished 45 minutes later, it was still hot outside, but it would start raining soon. Despite their very unconventional take on punk, the audience soaked it up in a head banging way. Lead singer Zack Borzone writhes and convulses in line with the group’s fitful industrial rhythms, screaming incoherent lyrics into space. It was bracing stuff and we admire the folks in the shed who actually tried to dance to it.

Faye Webster @ White Stage

By the time Faye Webster took the White Stage it had already been raining fairly heavily and continued doing so through her set. (The laundromat backdrop was appropriate seeing as we had all really been thoroughly soaked by the downpour.) The sizable crowd was even more subdued due to the precipitation, but Webster’s quiet soft rock doesn’t provoke a big reaction anyway. As expected she brought out Japanese singer-songwriter Mei Ehara, with whom she’s worked before, for a duet. 

Friday night’s all right for …

Mike Hadreas, aka Perfume Genius, ruled the Red Marquee around dusk as the sky outside turned purple. A  fitting color considering Hadreas’s dramatic stage presence and the melodramatic tone of his songs, which range from gentle piano ballads to full-on glam rock.

Perfume Genius at Red Marqee
Perfume Genius at Red Marqee | Daiki Miura photo

Twisting and writhing in line with the tenor of a song, he seemed almost elastic onstage, and the crowd absolutely adored it, cheering every dying swan routine and impossible arched back swoon. Skinniness was never so sexy.

Perfume Genius at Red Marquee
Perfume Genius at Red Marquee | Daiki Miura photo

OK Go’s early evening set at the White Stage was well attended by a very polite crowd that was obviously into the American band’s punchy power pop, though it would have been hard to tell if you only heard the show and didn’t see the swaying, bopping bodies.

OK GO at the White Stage
OK GO at the White Stage | Johan Brooks photo

Ably assisted by bassist Tim Nordwind’s fine soprano backing vocals, the group’s aural component was studio perfect. Leader Damian Kulash tried to connect with the audience directly by asking if there were any questions. Some wise guy asked what their favorite Japanese food is and each member answered appropriately, though drummer Dan Konopka was the most honest: “Beer,” he said. 

OK GO leader Damian Kulash
OK GO leader Damian Kulash | Johan Brooks

Apparently, there were electrical issues all day at the Green Stage, thus forcing Fred Again’s set to be pushed back by 90 minutes. We caught Ezra Collective’s set at the Field of Heaven. Though ostensibly a jazz group bassist-spokesperson TJ Koleoso insisted that the Field become a big dance hall, and they definitely brought the funk while trying out rock concert moves — getting the entire audience to squat and then jump up on cue, that sort of thing—that everybody was totally cool with. We only caught a bit of Fred Again’s set at the end, but though he’s categorized as a dance artist, Ezra got more bodies moving in our estimation.

Delay on Green Stage for Fred Again ..
Tech staff fill the stage ahead of the delayed performance of Fred Again .. | Johan Brooks photo

But the highlight of the day may have been Shintaro Sakamoto’s midnight gig at the Red Marquee. The shed was predictably packed and the self-effacing former Yura Yura Teikoku leader eschewed the psych rock his old band was famous for, concentrating solely on his solo material, which leans heavily toward yacht rock. A fantastic guitarist who can move from delicate melodic riffs to sky-high note-bending, he and his very able band just kept going from strength to strength, and all without the usual Japanese  stage chit-chat. It was serious pop music, which means everyone left very happy.

Fred Again .. at Green Stage | Masanori Naruse photo

A great start to Saturday

At first, it seemed like a lost opportunity to schedule the Argentine pop duo Ca7riel and Paco Amoroso in the morning, but it actually was a stroke of genius. Saturday is traditionally the most crowded day of the festival for obvious reasons, and today is sold out. C&PA thus were charged with getting the crowd in the proper mood to last the rest of the day, and they passed with flying colors, especially pink, which Ca7riel sported in an enormously puffy air-conditioned jacket and slacks combination. Paco was all in black, though the weird shapes coming off his costume made him look like a Takashi Murakami figurine. The fact that they stayed seated for the first half of their hour-long set didn’t discourage the audience from dancing themselves, which they did with total abandon, and all the way up to the tree line.

We assume we have Sony, their label, to thank for the translated lyrics on the jumbotron screens. Lots of good-natured sexual content there, and while the duo’s music zigzags from hip-hop to smooth R&B to raunchy rock and several species of Latin dance music, it’s all wrapped in a sardonic tone. The reason they’re so easy to love is because they make you feel you’re in on their secret joke. And once they stood up and started dancing themselves, Ca7riel’s bounce contrasting fully with Paco’s swish, it was already party. In fact, the problem may be that the crowd would be too exhausted to last the day. Maybe the best opening Saturday set we’ve ever seen at Fuji

The crowd at the White Stage for opener Basque ska-punk Fermin Muguruza was much smaller but quite a bit livelier. We saw our first mosh pit of the day, which is saying something considering how hot it was. Stridently political, Muguruza covered the waterfront so to speak, ranging from Kurdish independence to chants of Free Palestine! to name-dropping important figures of the revolution. Rumor has it that he’s finally retiring, but despite the grandfatherly aspect, he still puts on a fiery show and got the kids, as well as few ojisans, pogoing enough to kick up some dust. Viva la Revolucion! 

Playing the audience

After a brief light shower on Friday afternoon, the sun came back out with a vengeance. The White State was even hotter after the South African-Australian singer-songwriter Ecco Vandal started her set. She and her two resourceful sidemen delivered a canny blend of metal rap, reggae and pop fizz, and while the crowd was fairly thin they were a game group. The extra space was just right for dancing.

Mdou Moctar | Johan Brooks photos

The audience grew considerably for Niger master guitarist Mdou Moctar, who pretty much played the audience as skillfully as he did his instrument. Repetition is a plus with the so-called desert blues, and as his tight, rocking rhythm section kept up a solid wall of beat, Moctar kept shredding and shredding, until it seemed the distant thunder was a reaction to his powerful noise.

“You guys are the best,” he told the audience, meaning Japanese people, whom he genuinely admires. Twice he left the stage to play his savage solos surrounded by ecstatic bodies. There was a lot of heart in that show. 

Two ways to kick off the day

Us at Green Stage | Masanori Naruse photo

The first day of the festival opened under partly cloudy skies, with a sparse crowd gathered at the Green Stage for Danish blues garage rockers U.S., who also played Fuji last year. They’re becoming a habit, it would seem. They dedicated one song to Fuji Rock founder Masa Hidaka, who they said “is a lover of blues harp.” 

A rather different vibe commanded the White Stage soon afterwards when Otobake Beaver did their comical start-stop hardcore thing before a very large crowd as the clouds rolled in and thunder rumbled. Wearing colorful summer dresses and making sport of the long-haired middle aged guys in the audience, the quartet challenged the rockers to try and dance to their fitful music. Super entertainment for people with lethally short attention spans. 

This is how it begins

The pre-festival party, which is ostensibly thrown for the residents of Yuzawa, was packed this year. It was almost impossible to move around the Oasis, which is where all the food stalls are. We missed the bon-odori dance but managed to catch the fireworks that officially open the festival. It was a clear, cool night, which was pleasantly unusual, as there always seems to be a bit of rain the night before the festival starts.

The music was — as usual — great. The pre-fest bands are always guaranteed to get the crowd moving. The Panturas, an Indonesian psych-pop band, opened the musical portion of the evening with a scorching set at the Red Marquee, and later Parlor Greens, an organ-guitar-drums trio that glided handily from Hendrix-style blues to old school soul with a lot of attitude, set the place on fire. It helped that Jimmy James is a human jukebox who could endlessly tease the crowd with classic riffs, from rock to hip hop. We were ably primed for the weekend to come.